Bulldog
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The Mother of all Combat Boot InformationFound this on the Lightfighter forums, and it actually has me rethinking my aversion to combat boots for paintball...
| Quote: | Originally posted by Moloch38:
read this entirely or don't read it at all
-I can't take credit for this, merely passing it on from more experienced been there done that's around here, so thank them.
FEET
Start going barefoot in your boots now to make your feet tougher (not on road marches, only in garrison). Try to go barefoot as much as possible to build up the callous on your feet. there are a few methods to toughen your feet up quicker also with chemicals: you can rub alcohol on them every night, put Benzoin Tincture on them every night (the most proven method), or use tuffoot every night. Here are links for Benzoin tincture and tuffoot:
http://store.yahoo.com/brucemedical/bentin.html
http://www.tuffoot.com/order.htm
I've only ever used the barefoot in boots method, and I don’t get blisters at all. I've heard good stuff about the other methods though.
FITTING YOUR BOOTS
I like mine to fit like running shoes, pretty snug (when they are new at least - they will stretch quickly) but with some room to wiggle the toes (not tight on your toes at all). If they don’t fit SEND THEM BACK. do not wear boots that don’t fit right. Order a size or size and a half smaller than shoe size (I wear size 9.5 - 10 run shoe, size 8 - 9 boots). Yes, sometimes you will have to send them back or sell to a buddy.
A special note – if you are going to use insoles in your boots (which you really should), as mentioned below, be sure to get the insoles first and put them in the boots when you are trying them on. Some insoles are thick enough that you need to go up a half size.
BOOTS-JUNGLES ONLY
Buy the old Vietnam jungle boots that were manufactured in the 70's or the same boot currently made by wellco. They have the thickest leather, best soles, best material, and last the longest. You can tell them from other brands of jungles because they have big eyelets, thicker leather, and cotton and nylon uppers (as opposed to all nylon uppers or all cotton uppers). If you can't get those boots, buy boots made by Wellco. Wellco also makes some new jungles with nice running soles on them. I don't have a pair but I'm hearing good things about them. They (Wellco) also make the desert boot, which is much more comfortable than other jungles due to the suede material. They come tan but you can dye them black if you need to. Seriously, only the genuine Vietnam issue boots or wellco made boots are worth your money. here are links to buy Vietnam jungles and wellco boots - the recommended ones on the first link are ONLY item # B9701:
http://www.jwsurplus.com/pg076.htm
http://www.wellco.com/
look around on the wellco site, all their boots are quality made. The pair with running soles is about $80 shipped.
In addition, here is chipper’s link for jungles. They have sizes listed and are actually cheaper
[URL=http://www.armysurpluswarehouse.com/\]http://www.armysurpluswarehouse.com/\[/URL]
The black Army issue jungles they sell at the PX are an OK alternative, especially since the others are getting harder to find and regulations are changing on green jungles. But look into the others before you settle for the PX boots.
How to tell the old (better) jungles from cheap imitations and junkers (like altamas and SOGs) – a few ways. The eyelets are visibly much larger. The uppers are made of a different materiel – seems to be cotton uppers with nylon crossovers. The leather is a bit thicker, a little less flexible. Sometimes the soles are in the early sixties pattern – hard to find. What you really need to do is see a pair of the old boots and examine them carefully. After that you will always be able to tell. If you are looking to buy a pair, look for surplus stores that advertise Vietnam jungle boots – not Vietnam STYLE jungle boots. Then call them and ask if they are actually the ones made in the 60s and 70s. Usually they will be honest and tell you if they know.
INSOLES-THE HEART OF YOUR BOOT
Do not ignore this one. good insoles that mold to your feet are available. The Sole technology insoles work spectacularly (about $40 online – available at military clothing in the PX for $25). Took them through SFAS – not a single blister and very easy on my feet. A buddy took them through delta selection with the same results. Better than running shoe insoles, at least for me. If you don’t opt for them, put your best running shoe insoles in your boots. It makes a big difference in the way your feet feel. Don't ignore it, its a big one, just try it and see. Do not go cheap on insoles.
http://www.itsyoursole.com/technology.htm
BOOT WORK
Removing the toe and heel cups- This takes about 2 hours per boot the first time you do it. There are three layers inside your boot: liner, cup, and leather. Find where the cup ends in the front of the boot by feeling for it through the liner (which is usually yellow or gray) inside the boot. When you find that little gap, work it with your fingers until you get the material to separate a little. Then, very carefully, cut through the hanging material with a blade. Once you have that little cut/rip started, use it to rip out ALL of the liner material.
Once you have the liner out you should very easily be able to feel where the cup ends and leather begins. Take a non-sharp tool, such as a flathead screwdriver or even your fingers, and jam it between the leather and the cup. Work it around and separate the cup from the leather all the way down to the sole where the cup goes in. It is ok if you rip the cup while doing this.
Finally, once you’ve completely separated the cup from the leather as described above, put a pair of pliers (like a leatherman) in the boot and use it to twist the cup until it rips out. This is a lot harder than it sounds: you really have to muscle it to get it out.
This takes time but is well worth it, and you get faster with every pair you do. There is a place that supposedly will do it for you for $15 or so – have seen mixed results with that.
Softening your boots - you can use the old way of just using Kiwi softeners and polish, or you can use neatstoot oil (a softener for saddle leather). Neatsfoot is the best way to go.
There is a great process to do this right. First sand your boots down until the raw leather is exposed. This gets rid of the paint they put on your boots at the factory (yes, they actually PAINT them) and allows the oil to soak in.
Next, apply the oil very liberally. Rub it in for 15 minutes (working the leather). Let it sit overnight, repeat to your desire. At least 4 times is a good rule. Baseball glove softener also works, but don't bake your boot in the oven or park a car on it like you would a glove. You can buy neetsfoot oil online or at any farm supply or saddle shop. Talk to someone who has something to do with horses and they can get it for you. The link below has it for pretty cheap:
http://www.livestockconcepts.com/neatsfootoil.html
To break them in fast, just wear them soaking wet for a few hours a couple of times, usually that does the trick. However, if you oil them, you really don’t even need to do that.
RE-SOLEING
Getting them resoled at Ranger Joes costs about $45 - that is to get them soled and get the steel shank removed from them. This is also well worth your time and money. If you get them resoled, ask them for the softest vibram running shoe soles they have, not the ripple soles or any others. The running soles wear out quicker than others but are the way to go. Joes site:
http://www.rangerjoe.com/
There is also a place that puts actual vibram running soles on your boots, for about $50. These are definitely the best resole deal going. We used these going through selection with spectacular results. WELL WORTH YOUR $$.
http://www.resole.com/homefram.htm
or http://www.militarybootrepair.com/
LACING
There are a million ways to lace. Invent your own that is most comfortable. A good way is to lace the first three eyes, then put knots in the lace so that the laces stay LOOSE IN THE BOTTOM THREE EYES. This helps prevent tendonitis by alleviating the pressure in the tendons on top of the foot. Then, lace straight up one hole (without crossing over) so the boot has a place to bend without biting into the foot. From there on it does not matter for me how I lace them, so I either lace regular or skip right to the top holes simply for speed. Everyone laces differently. That is my way, one out of a million.
Types of laces – gutted 550 is the about the strongest most durable lace you can get, and you can buy black or die the green black if you have too. Gutted 550 will lay flat against your foot and minimizes abrasion and friction on your ankle/foot. Otherwise, 100% nylon laces are the best (but they bite into your foot). Laces with cotton in them fray too much and break.
GENERAL REPAIR
Sole damage and glue - sometimes when you get boots resoled they don’t glue the new ones perfectly, or you mess them up a little and they start to separate from the boot. The best thing to do is take them back to the place you got them soled at – usually they will repair them for free. If not, buy some Guerrilla Glue (you can get it anywhere online). Guerrilla glue is the strongest glue around, some places even use it to put your soles on. Just put a liberal amount on and let it cure for the recommended time.
SOCKS
Black issue socks are poor quality, shrink fast, and generally do not do what they should for your feet. The green issue socks are definitely of higher material quality, at least last longer, and seem to feel better. They are available at most surplus stores and definitely at ranger Joes. The various extra Thorlo socks the PX offers are ok, but are too thick for summertime comfort and normal boot fit. Dress socks work OK, but can give you hot spots on long movements.
The best alternative seems to be smart wool socks, coolmax socks (normal thickness), or ingenious socks. All of those and more are available at most hiking stores like REI and some outlets like bass pro. Many of them come in green, black, or some dark color. They all seem to work great – here is what to look for: a sock designed for extreme hiking/activity; a sock designed for warm weather wear; and socks that are about normal thickness, not overly bulky so that your boot is no longer comfortable. The only disadvantage to these socks is that they usually cost about $8-10 a pair.
Last note on socks – DO NOT WEAR 100% cotton socks (like your white socks) WITH BOOTS. When they get wet with seat, they will shred your feet like a blender. Just ask Dan Maher, a stud that was in the hospital after walking a mere 12 miles with his white socks on.
THE PERFECT BOOTS
Here is how you build the perfect 2 sets of field boots: 1 basic set you can wear comfortably to any school, 1 specialized set you wear whenever you are allowed
first – buy 2 pair of the old jungles (like from JW surplus).
-Take both pair, strip them with low grit sand paper, taking just a tiny bit of the black coating off until you can see the raw leather (about 1 hour a pair).
-Rub a very liberal coating of neatsfoot oil into them, then let them sit over night. Do that a total of 4 times.
-Now go ahead and put a liberal coating of black kiwi on them, rub it in well. Do it as much as you prefer, the more the better.
-You are done with one pair (unless you want to take the toe cups out of it) that will be your pair you can wear to any school.
-send the other pair off to re-sole.com and get the vibram new runner put on them and the steel shanks removed from the sole. If re-sole.com is not available or out of business, just get the softest, cushiest soles on the market put on them and the shanks removed.
-when you get them back, take the toe cups out of them (wait until you get them back b/c some places wont put soles on boots without toe cups in them)
-Now get the soles technology insoles listed above and follow the molding process (that is key). If you cant do that then use your best running shoe insoles.
-Now lace them with black 550 to your preference, and sink your feet into the softest, most comfortable pair of boots you have. Your money will be well spent (the total cost for my favorite pair of jungles is about $140, not to include hours put into softening and taking out cups. That is still cheaper than most good hunting boots).
You can’t fight if you can’t get to the battle
INVEST IN YOUR FEET.
Edited to fix that annoying typo in the title that has driven me crazy since this was first posted. Stephen |
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